Winter Ember Grand

When chestnuts arrive, the kitchen changes its smell. Winter Ember was born of that smell: a smoked chestnut purée, like chestnuts roasting at the door; a crunch of toasted chestnut in dark chocolate, for structure and a good bitterness; and a thin Granny Smith apple and lemon jelly that wakes the palate before the chestnut ganache — with honey and vanilla — closes it all.

This is the bonbon I took to A Coruña, to the 16th Cociña con Castaña de Galicia, where it won the sweet category in a live final. It is still made exactly the same way: by hand, piece by piece, in the atelier in Leiria.

I suggest it now because now is when it makes sense. Serve it out of the cold, at 18–20 ºC, and give it time — chestnut reveals itself slowly.